patrimonio cultural inmaterial

Being here in for The Fiesta De Los Patios De Cordoba frees you up from the burden of more simplistic self directed tourism. We don't need to buy things, we can just look in the courtyards, and there are a series of pathways through neighbourhoods of open courtyards that you can sign on to which puts some structure in the experience. That most of the visitors are Spanish and even local (although many aren't) kind of helps me deal with the situational challenge.

We took a guided tour through some of the patios in the antique areas of Cordoba this evening(Friday). It was in Spanish so I understood just a little. Grette understood a lot more.  But that was a good exercise for my Spanish ear. And a fine experience too given we mostly get things delivered to us in English and ready to consume.

This trip has strongly featured representative examples of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, as proclaimed by UNESCO. Namely Flamenco, Fado and now this Fiesta de Patios. As our guide explained, in the middle of a residential street, hundreds of years old - with bars and loud music and a number the courtyards looking spectacular and with queues at their doors - it's not the material thing, it's about the life people lead. And that includes maintaining the patios, and their geraniums and ferns and wells and fountains, and holding the competition.  

UNESCO seems big in Europe. And cultural heritage makes a lot of work, particularly if people like us come along to see or enjoy it.

Reminds me of a plan a friend and I had in the early nineties of a dance led economic recovery.. After all a dance piece with only one dancer isn't a better more efficient product than a piece with a troupe of ten.

But this cultural heritage (patrimonio cultural inmaterial, in Spanish) is especially fun and powerful because it isn't just us visitors enjoying the festival, or the fado in Portugal, or the flamenco, it really is still a part of so many people's lives.

Pavement sample

Pavements in black and white

The pavements of Portugal are particular it seems. A mix of white (limestone) and black (granite) squares making lines and patterns, quite different in different cities and different streets. They are pretty hard. Well, stone is hard. And variously uneven and slippery at times. They obviously last a long time. And they are a cultural expression, ranging from  sweeping curves to geometric boarders up and down the sides of streets, and even pictures of the Madonna, or a landscape, or a cat picked out in a black and white mosaic.  

The thing is there are so many of them. Much lower in terms of carbon dioxide production than concrete. I just wonder if there are some hills or mountains somewhere made of limestone, that are disappearing.  

Mosteiro dos Jeronimos

Fish stew with no chilli, but capsicum

A tourist song

Well it's been a hard couple of days in Lisbon being tourists. no one should have to do it but I'm sure it is an economically important contribution that we are making.

Yesterday was a particularly grumpy day when I failed to find the tram route so as to follow the fabulous self guided tour down the very steep hill, and we had to walk up the hill and see too much castle and not enough of the other special sites and views instead.  And, well, it was a day only saved by a simple dinner in a cool bar and some pretty fine touristic Fado in a restaurant-club.

The previous night we saw a Fado presentation, a concert that is  marketed as guaranteeing you a good insight into the art form.. although we both found it a flat and serious and mournful really. The performers last night had some more zip and humour about them. Of course, it is a kind of music that revolves around the lyrics which, to me, really ARE a foreign language. So I know I can't judge.

 I did google "fado, austerity and the crisis" and found references to (for example) a band called Deolinda. So something is going on, as you'd imagine.

On Monday we'd taken a train to Sintra and climbed all over an old moorish castle, and giant royal palace, and another royal museum that has a giant kitchen precisely perfect for a life rendition of Gormenghast with extremely giant chimneys.   And room to roast a rhinoceros.

Today was another day of tourism. Lots of queuing to get in to  museums that are collections but not great experiences. The Jeronimo Monastery however, was extraordinary though. Wonderful ornately carved columns all such a golden yellow from being cleaned of the grime of centuries just 15 years ago.

But the Marine/Navy museum was full of model boats, really full, but rather missing the physical reality of all the trade  - in spices and gold and slaves - which Portugal's golden age encompassed. And - no surprise here - I haven't located a mention of the chilli; which was what I'd hope to see at the naval museum.

The Portuguese seem to be quite proud of their historical period of world domination, and at the same time, very committed to food like fish and custard tarts (called Pasteis de Nata- the good ones are very very good and earn long queues).  Like the Indian restaurateur and I, almost everyone knows that the chilli was brought by the Portuguese from America. But where's pride in having used world domination to make that culinary contribution?

I have to admit I've dropped the chilli ball here. I've been a bit too pleased with the sardines and the seafood stew. And I've left the thought of finding a Brazilian or Angolan restaurant  too late in our adventure. Tonight we eat fish cakes and tomato salad at home, with a beer, and a pasteis with strawberries. Nice relaxing simple food.   We are really tired and we can sort out all our belongings before heading to the "Fiesta de los Patios de Cordoba" tomorrow.

 Particularly satisfying in a way was the bus trip back today's tourist sites. First Grette queued for the pasteis (We got 10) which was a cultural experience. Then we caught a fairly random bus that ran through suburbs rather reinforcing in our eye the rundown nature of Lisbon and the hard time people are having. Next we chanced upon a 250 yr old candle shop where I got a candle shaped like a cabbage. Finally we walked back to our apartment past a very convenient metro entrance that we'd never noticed before, and have no need for now! Just starting to feel at home.

Angels of diversity